For decades, red wine drinkers have been handed the same instruction: serve at room temperature. It is advice that made sense once, in an era of stone floors and unheated parlours, and makes considerably less sense now, in centrally heated kitchens with the pasta water already at a rolling boil. Historically, room temperature meant something closer to cellar temperature, somewhere between 12°C and 15°C.

Younger drinkers have not abandoned wine. They have simply redrafted the terms of the relationship. Understanding what they want and why they are willing to spend for it may be the most commercially important question our industry faces right now.

Wine has a habit of presenting itself as a finished thing. Pour it correctly, serve it at the right temperature, pair it with the appropriate dish, and the experience completes itself.