CHEFS' INSIGHTS: The Best English Cheeses You Need to Try

Traveling around England for the past month taught me a lot about cheeses; although I knew some things, there was still some info that was new to me. Here are some of the things I learned about these delightful ones that I simply had to enjoy with a glass of chilled white.

Stilton

Stilton is one of the great cheeses of the world, called 'the king of cheeses'. Named after the village in Huntingdonshire where it was first sold in the 18th century. 'Mr. John Pitts, Landlord of the Bell Inn at Stilton says, that he has every reason to believe, that the cheese known under the name of Stilton, was originally made at that place; that one Croxton Bray, a very old man, who died about the year 1777, aged about eighty years, remembers very well when a boy, that he, his brothers and sisters, and the people of Stilton in general, sent their children about to collect all the cream in the neighbouring villages, for the purpose of making what is called Stilton cheese.

Stilton cheese is only ever produced in the three counties of Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, and Leicestershire. Fresh pasteurised milk is poured into large vats and a blend of cultures and rennet are added. A particular yeast that allows for the mould to develop and grow at a quickened rate is also included in the mixture. Once the milk has curdled, it is cut, separated and left for the whey to strain off.

Milled and salted, the curd is then transferred into moulds. The moulds are placed on shelves and turned daily. The curd is never compressed. After a week the curd is smoothed by hand and set to age for a minimum of 5 weeks. Thin steel rods are passed into the cheese allowing the blue veins to breathe and grow.

A whole one is expensive and weighs about 8kg between £20 to £25. A very good one from Huntingdon costs about £150. A famous old tradition is that once the top is taken off, a little port is then poured into it, I heard tell it’s a treat not to be missed..

Wensleydale

Originally produced in Wensleydale, Yorkshire and now almost everywhere, but the best ones, I discovered, are still in Wensleydale. It was first produced by Cistercian monks in the Abbey. They came from Roquefort and brought with them a recipe for making cheese from sheep's milk, but later it shifted to cow's milk and remained mostly a blue cheese, though that is now rarely seen.

By the 17th century, the white variety became dominant. Commercial production ramped up with the first creamery in Hawes in 1897. Production nearly died out during WWII (when milk went to “Government Cheddar”) and again in the mid-20th century, with farmhouse versions declining sharply. It faced near-closure in the 1990s but survived. 

Medium, crumbly but moist and supple (not as dense as some hard cheeses). It has a creamy-white color, open texture, and a mild, clean, slightly sweet taste with a honeyed aftertaste and lactic acidity. It matures in 3–6 months and develops deeper flavors with age. Classic white (often in “truckles” or wheels); blue Wensleydale (rarer now, with veins); and flavored versions like cranberry (popular in the UK), apple, or others. Young versions are milder; matured ones are tangier. 

The cheese gained massive fame thanks to the Wallace & Gromit animated films by Aardman. Wallace’s love for it (famously declared in A Close Shave, 1995) helped save the Wensleydale Creamery from bankruptcy in the 1990s by spiking sales. The company even licensed special “Wallace & Gromit Wensleydale” varieties. 

Excellent with sweet apples, fruitcake (especially Christmas cake in Yorkshire), chutneys, or cranberries. Its mild profile makes it versatile for cheese boards or cooking. 

Lancashire

Lancashire cheese originates from the county of Lancashire in northwest England and dates back to at least the 13th century, making it one of England’s oldest cheeses. Historically, it was made on small farms using surplus milk, with two or three days' curd of varying maturity blended together, giving Lancashire cheese a distinctive character. In the 1950s, a crumbly Lancashire cheese was introduced.

Production peaked at over 200 makers before WWII, but rationing and industrialization sharply reduced it. Post-war, only about 22 farms resumed. Today, traditional farmhouse versions (like Kirkham’s, the only raw-milk one) are rare, while mass-produced varieties thrive. 

There are three main types: 

Creamy Lancashire. Young (4–12 weeks), fluffy, mild, and buttery/creamy. Excellent for melting without becoming stringy, perfect for toasties, Welsh rarebit, or sandwiches. 

Tasty Lancashire. Matured longer (several months), richer, tangier, and nuttier with more depth. 

Lancashire Crumbly. A more recent, mass-production-friendly style. Young, bright white, very crumbly, sharp, fresh, and zesty. Great on cheeseboards or with fruit. 

Traditionally paired with Eccles cakes or Chorley cakes (sweet pastries).  Also shines on cheeseboards, in pasta, or with chutneys and fresh fruit.

There are plenty more excellent cheeses on the board, but these three stood out for me on this trip around England.