FOOD REVIEW: How a Tiny French Bistro Above a London Pub Became the UK's Best Restaurant in 2026

I’ve spent years in kitchens and chasing stories that celebrate food’s power to comfort, connect, and transport. So when Bouchon Racine was recently crowned the UK’s Best Restaurant at the 2026 National Restaurant Awards, rising from fifth place to topple icons like The Ritz, I knew I had to experience it firsthand during my recent visit to London. 

Inside Bouchon Racine

Tucked upstairs above the historic Three Compasses pub at 66 Cowcross Street in Farringdon, this revival of Henry Harris’s beloved Racine (which closed in Knightsbridge in 2015, if I remember correctly) is more than a restaurant. It’s a joyful return to unpretentious, butter-rich French soul that feels both timeless and triumphant. 

Climbing the stairs from the lively pub below feels like stepping into a warm embrace. The dining room glows under a glass-ceilinged conservatory section, with cream walls, crisp white tablecloths, vintage posters, and shelves lined with old French wine bottles. Chalkboard menus are carried from table to table, creating an intimate, neighbourhood vibe amid the contented hum of conversation and clinking glasses. This excellent restaurant’s service is warm, professional, and perfectly paced, making you feel like a regular from the first friendly greeting.

As a chef, I appreciate places that honor fundamentals without chasing trends, and Bouchon Racine excels here. The menu celebrates Lyonnais bouchon and Parisian bistro classics with “indecent amounts of butter and cream,” all executed with precision and served in generous portions. Prices feel fair for the quality, with starters around £8–£16, and mains £18–£48. 

Signature Dishes that Define the Experience

I started with the chicken liver pâté, a coarse, earthy, generously portioned terrine paired with a perfect baguette and cornichons. It was rustic yet refined, the kind of starter that slows you down and builds anticipation. The escargots à la Bourguignonne followed: snails in heady garlic-parsley butter, with extra bread for mopping. My companion’s Bayonne ham with celeriac remoulade offered a fresh, crunchy balance.

For mains, the grilled rabbit with mustard sauce and smoked bacon, simply stole the show. It was tender, punchy, non-gamey, with crispy skin and vibrant sauce, served alongside exemplary frites and haricots verts. Other standouts on the ever-changing chalkboard include côte de boeuf to share with béarnaise sauce, rich sauces,  bavette steak, tête de veau with sauce ravigote for the adventurous, and seasonal specials like duck confit or veal options. Sides like creamed spinach or green beans cut through the richness beautifully.

Dessert was pure nostalgia: the crème caramel with Armagnac-soaked prunes, wobbly, silky, bittersweet, and frequently hailed as one of London’s (if not England’s) best. We eyed the shareable Mont Blanc or almond tart for next time. 

The French-led wine list is thoughtful and accessible, with excellent options by the glass and bottle. Our Luberon Blanc and Côtes du Rhône paired seamlessly, with attentive staff guidance.

In an era of fleeting trends, Bouchon Racine feels like a quiet triumph, a love letter to generous, soulful cooking that reminds us why classic French fare endures. It’s the kind of place that reignites your passion for honest food, whether you’re a chef seeking inspiration or simply craving deep pleasure. I already plan my return.

Meeting Henry Harris, The Chef Behind the Magic

Henry Harris is one of Britain’s most respected champions of classic French cooking. Born into a food-loving family (his father ran Le Grandgousier in Brighton), he trained at Leith’s and spent his formative years as sous chef at Bibendum under Simon Hopkinson. In 2002, he opened Racine in Knightsbridge, a beloved institution for over a decade.

After its closure, Harris explored pub projects before partnering with Dave Strauss to revive the spirit at Bouchon Racine, which opened in 2022. Their modest ambitions, to pay the mortgage, take a holiday, have blossomed into the UK’s top restaurant in 2026. Harris’s philosophy is simple: cook the food people want to eat, with quality ingredients, generous technique, and no trend-chasing. He’s also the author of The Racine Effect, a cookbook distilling decades of provincial French wisdom.

For Harris, it’s about character: “good bones, brown carpet, old mirrors,” and the unmistakable feeling of being in safe hands. In Bouchon Racine, that vision shines brighter than ever.

Take note: Open Tuesday–Saturday for lunch (12:00–3:00 p.m) and dinner (6:00–10:00 p.m); closed Sundays and Mondays. Average spend £60–£100+ per person with wine. 

Bookings at: bonjour@bouchonracine.com. Michelin-recommended and justly so. 

Discovering Hospitality Ratings

Ambiance: 7/10

Service: 9/10

Presentation: 8/10

Food: 10/10

Overall rating: 9/10