FOOD REVIEW: Calong, Stoke Newington, London

From the soaring heights of Galvin at Windows to the lively streets of Stoke Newington, Chef Joo Young Won has landed in a decidedly more approachable, but no less exciting, setting with his new restaurant, Calong.

Nestled directly opposite a Whole Foods on the bustling Buggy Mile, Calong may not boast Belgravia rooftops, but its interior charms more than compensate. The space is cozy and understated, evoking the front-room intimacy of a friend’s apartment. Exposed brick, wall-mounted coat hooks reminiscent of St John, a chalkboard menu, and plentiful two-tops make the room feel immediately welcoming, and, for the romantically inclined, effortlessly date-worthy.

The menu is a masterclass in thoughtful fusion. Raised in South Korea but trained in the UK with a grounding in French technique, Chef Joo melds native flavours with European ingredients in a light-touch, sophisticated way. Kimchi fritters arrive first: a gloriously crispy take on the classic pancake, golden all over with edges so crunchy they almost steal the show from the rest of the meal. A warm pumpkin and pear salad is dressed with subtle gochujang and scattered with fried potato gnocchi, whimsical yet deeply satisfying in taste and texture.

Seafood shines, too: Chalkstream trout, perfectly cured, comes dressed with sesame and plum soy, accompanied by grapefruit and crisp cucumber, refreshing and sprightly. And the fried chicken, proudly bearing the chef’s name, is an indulgence in its own right: crunchy, tender, and served with a sweet-but-not-overpowering chili sauce dotted with peanuts.

Mains continue to impress. The BBQ onglet is legendary, a steak even non-steak lovers will adore: tender, sweet, and served with a light scatter of greens and a nuanced bulgogi jus. The only minor misstep is the mushroom sot bap rice pot, a comforting but slightly timid dish compared to the punch of flavours elsewhere.

Calong is perfect for sharing and for stirring up playful fork fights over the last kimchi fritter. Drinks echo the kitchen’s creativity, with Korean-inspired cocktails like the sesame old-fashioned and soju paloma complementing a carefully curated wine list. For those who want to linger, a follow-up drink at the tiny nearby micro pub, Macintosh Ales, is highly recommended.

Though it lacks Mayfair views, Calong offers one of Stoke Newington’s most compelling culinary experiences, a warm, romantic, and flavour-packed destination that showcases Chef Joo’s mastery and charm.

Vibe: Super romantic without pretension, ideal for date night.

Cuisine: European ingredients, Korean-inspired flavours.

Drinks: Korean-accented cocktails, natural wines.

Address: 35 Stoke Newington Church Street, Stoke Newington, London, N16 0NX